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Mount Magazine State Park:
Mount Magazine is the highest point in Arkansas, and home to some great climbing with spectacular views. This page should give you all the info you will need to plan a trip to Mag including directions, camping info, and some of the best climbs. Enjoy!
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Directions to Mount Magazine Climbing Area:
FROM FORT SMITH: Take Hwy 22 east to Paris. Turn right at second stop light. Continue until hwy 309, follow this to Green Field Picnic area (on your left). Turn right. This wil take you to the scenic loop on Mt. Mag. Turn left onto the loop for a short drive to the parking lot.
FROM RUSSELLVILLE: Head south on Hwy 7 to Dardenelle. From here, go south on Hwy 27 to Danville. At Danville turn west on hwy 10 and procede to the town of Havanna. Turn north on Hwy 309 just after the car wash. Head to the top of the mountain. Turn left at the Green Field Camping area. This will lead you to the scenic loop drive.
FROM LITTLE ROCK: Head west on Hwy 10 to Havanna. Turn north on Hwy 309 after the car wash. Head to the top of the mountain. Turn left at the Green Field Picnic area.
These directions are from the guidebook. Get it!
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Gator on Don't Worry Be Happy, 5.8 Mixed Route at Mount Magazine. Photo by Zane "Rich" Gentry |
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Camping in the Mount Magazine Area:
Free camping is available at the Cameron Bluff campground just off the scenic loop. Each campsite has a picnic table, charcoal gril,and gravel tent pad. There are restrooms, garbage cans, and drinking water in the campground, except in the winter when the water is turned off. Bring your own! There are also campsites on the south side of the scenic loop. Camping is also available at Cove Lake about 10 minutes from the crag down Hwy 309. It is about a night, but they have showers, bathrooms, and swimming. This facility is closed in the winter. |
Nearby Camping Areas
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Classic Magazine Routes:
43. in the climbing guide. Right to Flight/The Nose 5.9+ *** Natural.
In my opinion the best climb at Mt. Mag. Crag Central Wall. Huge exposure and a great west facing overhang. You can probably see 50 miles from this climb, and is probably the reason I am climbing.
4. Lycrophilia 5.10a ** Sport route, 3 bolts
It's a short ride, but it is one fun route. 35ft over 3 bolts on a west facing arete. It's the first bolted route coming from the waterfall walk down, and seems to be one of the more popular sport routes at Mt. Mag.
35. French Connection 5.11b ** Sport route, 5 bolts
This route requires balance and strength. Located at Crag Central and usually has a crowd below it. Cruise control 5.7 another crag favorite is 10ft. to the right.
11. Jupiter Trembled 5.12b ** Sport route 6 bolts
Long, roofy and well beyond my climbing ability, but a Mt. Mag classic. Found on the Breakfast wall.
64. Centerfold 5.8 ** Natural.
Obvious crack in the middle of the Centerfold wall. Its an excellent route for beginners. Easy to set up a top rope on the cedar tree and sucks up any pro you can throw at it.
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Classic Mag Climbs
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